I decided I wanted to upgrade the “Shoe Rack” by the front door, I needed something a little bigger anyway to hold more shoes.
So if you’re in need of something similar, read on for how I built mine! I built this one a few months ago now, this is more of a guide for ideas/inspiration more than an actual “How-To.” If you have any questions, feel free to send them to me!
I Started off with building my Side Walls. My initial cuts of wood for this are: (2) 1×12 @ 10″, (4) 2×2 @ 13″, and (4) 1×2 @ 10″
I drilled 4 Pocket Holes on the Inside of Each Side Board.
Now, Assemble the Side Walls. I did each wall in different order. My suggestions are in the captions of the photos below.
Both Side Walls
I decided to add some Cove Molding for a touch of fancy. Just cut to size and glue it in place!
Wow! The Cove Molding makes a big difference for a small cost.
Cut your Back Wall to your desired length. Mine is 37″. I drilled a total of 6 pocket holes on the back side, (3 on each side) and attached the Side Walls.
Attach a 1×2″ on the Front like this. This will support the top of the Shoe Rack. In the next photo you can see I drilled 2 Pocket Holes and attached it that way. Here, you can see mine screwed on a little crookedy 🙁 It’s one of my struggles with Pocket Holes. Everything needs to be clamped really well or else the wood moves easily.
Drill 2 Pocket Holes on each side of the 1×2.
I decided to make the top of my Shoe Rack with (2) 1×8’s. I’m dry-fitting them here. 1x8s were actually too big, so I had them cut down smaller on the table saw, so that each board is about 6.5″ wide. I have no overhang in back, and about 1/2″ overhand everywhere else.
Making the Top
Sanding ’em down.
This is the Shelf Board, a 1×12 cut to length (37″). I drilled pocket holes all around. I also cut a 1×2 to the same width to frame the front. I’m attaching that 1×2 here with pocket screws.
What the Shelf looks like from the bottom. On the side that touches the Back Wall….You can use Pocket Screws or a screw straight in from the back.
I added a basic routing edge on the sides and front.
Here, the Top is flipped, so “bad” side facing up. Here we aligned the board with the correct overhang. I’m using biscuits again to attach the top. Here Eric is marking the top board.
Can you see the pencil mark?
OK….it gets a little tricky here. The Top is marked with where it lines up with the rest of the Shoe Rack, but we need to account for the spacing of the Biscuit Cutter, so please keep that in mind when you are building yours!
Putting all the Biscuits in.
Finally, it’s time to stain the Shoe Rack. I almost always apply a Pre-Stain first when working with pine wood. I just think it makes it so much easier to apply the stain, distribute the stain, and makes the stain look more uniform throughout the piece.
I always wipe with a tack cloth before starting stain
1 coat of Pre Stain, 1 coat of Stain (I used Minwax Early American. It never lets me down) plus 2 coats of Poly. I used Steel Wool at the end.
The final product!
Well that filled up quick!
Happy Building & Thanks for Reading!